Chapter 1

Before you begin

A pattern is a flat drawing of a garment, cut into the pieces it is sewn from. Drafting means drawing that pattern from body measurements, line by line, with a ruler, a square and a few curves.

This book teaches drafting the way it is done at a cutting table. Each block (the plain, well-fitting base of a garment) is built from a frame of straight lines, then shaped with curves. Every line has a reason, and the reason is given next to it. Once you understand why a line is where it is, you can change it on purpose.

Tools

Tape measureA soft tape, 150 cm, that does not stretch. Replace it when the numbers wear or it has stretched.

Long rulerAt least 60 cm, transparent, with a 5 mm grid: straight lines and seam allowances in one go.

Set squareAn L-square or large triangle for right angles: every frame starts with two lines square to each other.

CurvesA French curve for armholes and necklines, a hip curve for side seams and hems.

Pencils and paperA hard pencil (2H) for drafting, a soft one for the final line. Plain or dotted pattern paper.

Tracing wheel and notcherThe wheel copies a line through to the paper below; the notcher cuts the matching marks into the edge.

How drafting works

Half the body. The body is symmetrical, so you draw half the back and half the front. They are cut twice or on the fold.
Frame first. Start with a vertical centre line and a horizontal top line, square to each other. Every other line is measured from these two.
Points, then lines. Mark the points from the measurements, then join them: straight with the ruler, curved with the curve.
Name everything. Number the points and write what each line is. A pattern you can read is a pattern you can correct.
Walk the seams. Seams that are sewn together must have the same length, or a planned difference that is eased in. Measure them before you cut fabric.

Draft first, then add seam allowance. All drafts in this book are drawn on the stitching line. The seam allowance is added around the finished pieces, which keeps every measurement exact.

Reading this book

Chapters 2 to 4 are the foundations: measuring, the language on a pattern, and ease. Then each block has its own chapter with every step drawn. You can change the size at the top of a drafting chapter and all the numbers follow. The course on the Learn page tests the same material in short exercises.