Chapter 8
The raglan sleeve
A raglan sleeve runs from the neckline to the underarm in one piece, without a shoulder seam on the body. It moves easily and suits sportswear, coats and knits.
You start from the back and front of the body, draw the raglan line from a point on the neckline to the lowered underarm, and tilt the sleeve from the shoulder so the curve of the armhole and the curve of the sleeve match.
What you need
| Measurement | Where the tape goes | Size 38 |
|---|---|---|
| Bust | Round the fullest part of the bust, level all round, under the arms. Wear the bra the garment will be worn with. | 88.0 cm |
| Waist | Round the natural waist, where the body is narrowest, usually just above the navel. | 72.0 cm |
| Hip | Round the fullest part of the hips and seat, feet together. | 97.0 cm |
| Neck | Round the base of the neck, over the prominent bone at the back and just above the collarbones at the front. | 36.6 cm |
| Back length (nape to waist) | Down the centre back, from the prominent bone at the base of the neck to the waist. Tie a string round the waist to find it. | 40.6 cm |
| Waist to hip | Down the side of the body from the waist to the fullest part of the hip or seat. | 21.0 cm |
| Arm length | From the shoulder point over a slightly bent elbow to the wrist bone. | 60.0 cm |
| Bicep | Round the fullest part of the upper arm, arm relaxed. | 28.0 cm |
| Wrist | Round the wrist over the wrist bone. | 15.8 cm |
Drafting, step by step
Each picture shows everything drawn so far; the new line of the step is in colour. The formulas show the names of the measurements first, then the numbers for size 38.
Back and back sleeve
Step 1
Start from the dartless block
the back of the dartless blouse
A raglan is drafted on top of a block with set-in sleeves. The shoulder and the top of the armhole move from the body to the sleeve.
Step 2
Underarm lowered
underarm lowered = 4.0A raglan sleeve sits lower under the arm than a set-in one, so the arm can move without the seam pulling.
Step 3
Raglan point on the neckline
raglan line from neck point = 5.0The raglan seam starts a few centimetres in from the neck point. Further in makes the sleeve wider at the neck and the seam steeper.
Step 4
Guide line and crossing point
12 cm up the line from the underarm: 12.0 cm
A straight line joins the underarm point and the raglan point. Where the body and the sleeve curves will cross is marked about 12 cm up it.
Step 5
Raglan seam
R1 to Q3, curved a little towards the arm: 22.3 cm
The upper part of the seam is shared by the body and the sleeve. Below Q3 the two part: the body curves down into the side, the sleeve curves out into its underarm.
Step 6
Sleeve angle
sleeve angle (height above neck point) = 9.0The sleeve axis sets how steeply the sleeve falls. A higher point gives a flatter sleeve that lifts the arm more freely and has more fabric under the arm; a lower one hangs closer to the body.
Step 7
Sleeve underarm
the body curve turned over at Q3: 12.6 cm
The sleeve underarm is the body underarm mirrored at Q3, so the two seams have exactly the same length and sew together without easing.
Step 8
Sleeve length
Arm length + sleeve length adjustment= 60.0 + 0.0 = 60.0 cmThe arm length is measured from the shoulder point, so it is set off along the axis from the shoulder.
Step 9
Sleeve hem
sleeve hem width ÷ 2= 26.0 ÷ 2 = 13.0 cmThe sleeve is in two halves joined along the overarm seam, so each half carries half of the hem.
Step 10
Outline of the back and the back sleeve
Trace the body and the sleeve off separately: the body keeps the neckline to R1 and the curve below Q3, the sleeve takes the neckline from R1 to the neck point and the shoulder.
Front and front sleeve
Step 1
Start from the dartless block
the front of the dartless blouse
A raglan is drafted on top of a block with set-in sleeves. The shoulder and the top of the armhole move from the body to the sleeve.
Step 2
Underarm lowered
underarm lowered = 4.0A raglan sleeve sits lower under the arm than a set-in one, so the arm can move without the seam pulling.
Step 3
Raglan point on the neckline
raglan line from neck point = 5.0The raglan seam starts a few centimetres in from the neck point. Further in makes the sleeve wider at the neck and the seam steeper.
Step 4
Guide line and crossing point
12 cm up the line from the underarm: 12.0 cm
A straight line joins the underarm point and the raglan point. Where the body and the sleeve curves will cross is marked about 12 cm up it.
Step 5
Raglan seam
R1 to Q3, curved a little towards the arm: 18.5 cm
The upper part of the seam is shared by the body and the sleeve. Below Q3 the two part: the body curves down into the side, the sleeve curves out into its underarm.
Step 6
Sleeve angle
sleeve angle (height above neck point) = 9.0The sleeve axis sets how steeply the sleeve falls. A higher point gives a flatter sleeve that lifts the arm more freely and has more fabric under the arm; a lower one hangs closer to the body.
Step 7
Sleeve underarm
the body curve turned over at Q3: 12.6 cm
The sleeve underarm is the body underarm mirrored at Q3, so the two seams have exactly the same length and sew together without easing.
Step 8
Sleeve length
Arm length + sleeve length adjustment= 60.0 + 0.0 = 60.0 cmThe arm length is measured from the shoulder point, so it is set off along the axis from the shoulder.
Step 9
Sleeve hem
sleeve hem width ÷ 2= 26.0 ÷ 2 = 13.0 cmThe sleeve is in two halves joined along the overarm seam, so each half carries half of the hem.
Step 20
Outline of the front and the front sleeve
Trace the body and the sleeve off separately: the body keeps the neckline to R1 and the curve below Q3, the sleeve takes the neckline from R1 to the neck point and the shoulder.
The finished pieces
Sewing it
- Cut and mark. Cut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
- Raglan seams. Sew the back and front sleeve halves together along the overarm seam, then sew the raglan seams to the body from the neck to the underarm, matching the notches.
- Neckline. Finish the neckline with a facing or bias binding.
- Side seams. Sew the side seams and the sleeve underarm seams in one line, from the hem to the sleeve end.
- Hem. Turn up the hem twice and stitch, or catch it by hand.