Chapter 10
The straight skirt
The straight skirt is the simplest fitted block for the lower body: a back and a front, darts at the waist and a vent to walk in.
The frame is a quarter of the hip plus ease wide and as long as the skirt. The waist is smaller than the hip; part of the difference goes into the side seam curve, the rest into darts that end above the fullest part of the hip.
What you need
| Measurement | Where the tape goes | Size 38 |
|---|---|---|
| Waist | Round the natural waist, where the body is narrowest, usually just above the navel. | 72.0 cm |
| Hip | Round the fullest part of the hips and seat, feet together. | 97.0 cm |
| Waist to hip | Down the side of the body from the waist to the fullest part of the hip or seat. | 21.0 cm |
Drafting, step by step
Each picture shows everything drawn so far; the new line of the step is in colour. The formulas show the names of the measurements first, then the numbers for size 38.
Back
Step 1
Centre back line
seam with the zip
The skirt is drafted as a quarter: centre back on the left, side seam on the right. The back has a centre seam for the zip and the vent.
Step 1–2
Hip line
Waist to hip − 1= 21.0 − 1 = 20.0 cmThe hip line marks where the body is widest. Above it the skirt is shaped in to the waist, below it the skirt falls straight.
Step 1–3
Skirt length
skirt length = 62.0Length is measured down the centre from the waist line.
Step 2–4
Hip width
(Hip + hip ease) ÷ 4= (97.0 + 4.0) ÷ 4 = 25.3 cmA quarter of the finished hip. The ease lets you sit and walk; a close straight skirt takes about 2 to 4 cm in all.
Step 1–5
Waist width
(Waist + waist ease) ÷ 4 + dart= (72.0 + 1.0) ÷ 4 + 3.0 = 21.3 cmA quarter of the finished waist plus the dart. The dart and the curve of the side seam take out the difference between the waist and the hip.
Step 6
Centre waist lowered
drop = 2.0The waistline dips at the centre back so that, worn, it follows the curve of the body and sits level all round. Without it the waist would ride up at the centre.
Step 5–4–7
Side seam
curved to the hip, then 1.0 in at the hem: 62.6 cm
The side seam curves out from the waist to follow the hip, then runs down to the hem. Taking the hem in narrows the skirt to a pencil line; keep enough width or a vent to walk.
Step 8
Waist dart
width, length3.0, 12.0The dart is placed half of the way to the side and points to the fullest part of the seat. The back dart is longer and wider because the seat is rounder than the front.
Step 9
Vent
15.0 up from the hem: 15.0 cm
A vent at the centre back opens when you walk, so a narrow skirt does not restrict the stride.
Step 10
Outline of the back
The sewing lines of the back. The waistband is a straight strip cut to the waist length plus the overlap.
Front
Step 1
Centre front line
cut on the fold
The skirt is drafted as a quarter: centre front on the left, side seam on the right. The front is cut on the fold, so it comes out in one piece.
Step 1–2
Hip line
Waist to hip − 1= 21.0 − 1 = 20.0 cmThe hip line marks where the body is widest. Above it the skirt is shaped in to the waist, below it the skirt falls straight.
Step 1–3
Skirt length
skirt length = 62.0Length is measured down the centre from the waist line.
Step 2–4
Hip width
(Hip + hip ease) ÷ 4= (97.0 + 4.0) ÷ 4 = 25.3 cmA quarter of the finished hip. The ease lets you sit and walk; a close straight skirt takes about 2 to 4 cm in all.
Step 1–5
Waist width
(Waist + waist ease) ÷ 4 + dart= (72.0 + 1.0) ÷ 4 + 2.0 = 20.3 cmA quarter of the finished waist plus the dart. The dart and the curve of the side seam take out the difference between the waist and the hip.
Step 6
Centre waist lowered
drop = 1.5The waistline dips at the centre front so that, worn, it follows the curve of the body and sits level all round. Without it the waist would ride up at the centre.
Step 5–4–7
Side seam
curved to the hip, then 1.0 in at the hem: 62.9 cm
The side seam curves out from the waist to follow the hip, then runs down to the hem. Taking the hem in narrows the skirt to a pencil line; keep enough width or a vent to walk.
Step 8
Waist dart
width, length2.0, 10.0The dart is placed two thirds of the way to the side and points to the fullest part of the stomach. The back dart is longer and wider because the seat is rounder than the front.
Step 19
Outline of the front
The sewing lines of the front. The waistband is a straight strip cut to the waist length plus the overlap.
The finished pieces
Sewing it
- Cut and mark. Cut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches, the dart points and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
- Interfacing. Fuse interfacing to the collar, stand, cuffs, waistband, facings and front edges before sewing anything.
- Darts. Sew each dart from the wide end to the point, the last stitches right on the fold. Tie the threads at the point, do not backstitch. Press waist darts towards the centre, bust darts downwards.
- Side seams. Sew the side seams, leaving the left side (or the centre back) open for the zip. Neaten and press open.
- Zip. Insert an invisible zip, the top stop just below the waistband seam.
- Waistband. Sew the waistband right side to right side to the waist, fold it over, press and stitch in the ditch from the outside. Add a hook and bar or a button.
- Vent. Finish the vent at the centre back: fold the extension, stitch across the top at an angle.
- Hem. Press up the hem allowance and catch it by hand or with a blind hem stitch.