Chapter 2
Taking measurements
A draft is only as good as the numbers it starts from. Measure slowly, write each number down at once, and measure twice when in doubt.
The rules
- Wear light, close-fitting clothes or underwear. A thick jumper adds centimetres everywhere.
- Stand naturally, feet slightly apart and looking ahead; for the seat, put the feet together. Do not breathe in or stand taller than usual.
- Let someone else measure you. Measuring yourself bends the body and the numbers come out wrong.
- Round the body, the tape is snug but does not pull in: a finger should slide under it. It stays level, parallel to the floor, all round. Check in a mirror.
- Tie a string or narrow elastic round the middle first and move a little until it settles at the natural waist. Many lengths start or end there, and the string keeps it in one place.
- Lengths are taken along the body, not through the air: the tape follows the curve.
- For women’s tops, measure in the bra the garment will be worn with; a padded or push-up bra changes the bust.
Why so many round measurements are divided by four. You draw half the back and half the front, so each drawing is a quarter of the body’s circumference. That is why chest, waist and seat appear as “÷ 4” in the formulas.
Every measurement
The coloured line shows where the tape goes.
ChestRound the fullest part of the chest, under the arms and across the shoulder blades. Breathe normally.
WaistRound the natural waist, where the body is narrowest, usually just above the navel.
SeatRound the fullest part of the seat, feet together.
NeckRound the base of the neck, over the prominent bone at the back and just above the collarbones at the front.
Nape to waistDown the centre back, from the prominent bone at the base of the neck to the waist. Tie a string round the waist to find it.
Scye depthDown the centre back from the nape to a line level with the bottom of the armpits. Hold a ruler under the arms to mark it.
Across backAcross the shoulder blades, from where one arm meets the body to the other, about 10 cm below the nape, arms relaxed.
Across chestAcross the front, from where one arm meets the body to the other, about 5 cm below the collarbones.
Shoulder lengthFrom the side of the neck to the shoulder point, the bone at the end of the shoulder.
Shoulder to shoulderAcross the back from one shoulder point to the other, over the base of the neck.
Arm lengthFrom the shoulder point over a slightly bent elbow to the wrist bone.
BicepRound the fullest part of the upper arm, arm relaxed.
WristRound the wrist over the wrist bone.
Outside legDown the side of the leg from the waist to the floor, without shoes.
Body riseSeated on a firm, flat chair: from the waist at the side straight down to the seat of the chair.
Waist to hipDown the side of the body from the waist to the fullest part of the hip or seat.
For women’s blocks
BustRound the fullest part of the bust, level all round, under the arms. Wear the bra the garment will be worn with.
UnderbustSnugly round the ribcage right under the bust, where a bra band sits. Breathe out and keep the tape level all round.
Front length (neck point to waist)From the side of the neck, over the bust point, straight down to the waist.
Bust point depthFrom the side of the neck down to the bust point, the fullest point of the bust.
Checking the numbers
Some measurements must agree with others. Nape to waist is always longer than scye depth; across back is shorter than shoulder to shoulder; the waist is rarely larger than the seat on a woman. The editor checks these and warns before you print.