Chapter 16

From pattern to garment

The order of sewing matters as much as the pattern. The rule: sew what is easy to reach while the pieces are flat, and close the garment into a tube as late as you can.

Preparing

• Wash the fabric the way the garment will be washed, before cutting.
• Lay every piece with its grain line parallel to the selvedge; measure from the selvedge at both ends of the arrow.
• Cut the notches as small snips, transfer darts and pocket marks with chalk.
• Fuse interfacing to collars, cuffs, facings and waistbands before any sewing.

The order, for a T-shirt

1. Cut and mark. Cut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
2. Set up for stretch. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle and a narrow zigzag or the stretch stitch, or an overlocker. Seams in knit must stretch with the fabric.
3. Shoulders. Sew the shoulder seams; stabilise them with clear elastic or a strip of tape so they do not stretch.
4. Neckband. Join the band into a ring, fold it in half and sew it to the neckline in quarters, stretching the band slightly.
5. Sleeves. Sew the sleeves into the open armholes flat, stretching nothing.
6. Side seams. Sew the side seams and the sleeve underarm seams in one line, from the hem to the sleeve end.
7. Hem. Turn up and stitch the hems with a twin needle or a coverstitch.

Every pattern in the editor has its own sewing order, shown next to the pattern.