Chapter 3

The language of a pattern

Every pattern speaks the same small language of lines and marks. Learn it once and you can read any pattern, from any maker.

Straight skirt, back and front. Cutting line in black, stitching line dashed, darts in colour, the grain line as an arrow.

Lines and marks

Cutting line. The outer edge. You cut along it.
Stitching line. Where the seam is sewn. The strip between the two lines is the seam allowance.
Fold. This edge goes on the folded fabric; one cut gives a whole, mirrored piece.
Grain line. The arrow is laid parallel to the selvedge.
Dart. A wedge stitched out of the fabric to shape it over a curve of the body.
Notches. Short cuts into the edge. Matching notches on two pieces are sewn together; two notches usually mark the back.

Words

Block	A basic pattern drafted to body measurements, without style details, used as the starting point for designs.
Ease	Extra width added to the body measurement so the garment can be worn and moved in.
Seam allowance	The strip beyond the stitching line that holds the seam.
Grain line	The arrow on a piece that is laid parallel to the selvedge of the fabric.
Cut on fold	The edge is laid on folded fabric, so one cut gives a whole mirrored piece.
Notch	A small mark on an edge that is matched to the same mark on the joining piece.
Dart	A stitched wedge that takes out width to shape flat fabric over a curve of the body.
Hem allowance	Extra length at the bottom edge that is turned up and stitched.
Armhole	The opening in the body pieces where the sleeve is sewn in. Also called the scye.
Sleeve cap	The curved top of the sleeve that is sewn into the armhole.
Grading	Making the other sizes from a base size.
Centre back	The vertical line down the middle of the back of the body.
Crotch depth	The distance from the waist down to the crotch line of trousers or briefs.
Fork	The extension at the top of the inside leg that reaches between the legs.
Inseam	The seam on the inside of the leg.
Gusset	A separate piece set into the crotch of briefs as a lining.
Negative ease	The garment is smaller than the body; stretch fabric makes up the difference.
Crease line	The line down the middle of each trouser leg, used as its grain line.
Selvedge	The finished edge along each side of the fabric as it comes off the loom.
Bias	The direction at 45° to the grain, where woven fabric stretches most.