Pattern Index
The course

Chapter 4

Ease and fit

A garment the exact size of the body cannot be put on, let alone moved in. Ease is the extra width added to the body measurement.

Two kinds of ease

  • Wearing ease lets you breathe, sit and reach. Even a close-fitting shirt needs a few centimetres round the chest.
  • Design ease is extra width chosen for the look: a boxy jacket, a loose coat, an oversized T-shirt.

In these drafts the tape measures only the body, and the ease is added in the formula: chest + chest ease gives the finished chest. Changing the ease changes the style, not the measurement.

Negative ease. Swimwear, leggings and briefs are drafted smaller than the body. The fabric stretches to fit, so the less it stretches, the less you take off.

How much ease the blocks use

Chest or bust ease, all round, as the blocks start. They are starting points; change them to taste.

Tops

T-shirt10.0 cm
Hoodie22.0 cm

Shirts

Shirt20.0 cm

Tailoring

Tailored jacket11.0 cm
Golf jacket16.0 cm
Stand-collar jacket17.0 cm
Double-breasted jacket17.0 cm
Waistcoat8.0 cm

Outerwear

Blouson18.0 cm
Zip jacket23.0 cm
Overcoat34.0 cm
Chesterfield coat28.0 cm
Hubertus coat28.0 cm

Women

Darted bodice8.0 cm
Women's shirt10.0 cm
Dartless blouse14.0 cm
Fitted T-shirt4.0 cm
Raglan top14.0 cm
Kimono top16.0 cm
Bolero10.0 cm
Women's waistcoat8.0 cm
Sheath dress12.0 cm
Tailored jacket10.0 cm
Princess jacket15.0 cm
Princess coat22.0 cm

Underwear

Tank top-4.0 cm
Boxer shorts5.0 cm
Camisole4.0 cm
Bodysuit-2.0 cm
Sports bra-6.0 cm

Sleepwear

Pyjamas20.0 cm
Dressing gown26.0 cm
Nightdress8.0 cm
Women's pyjamas16.0 cm
Women's dressing gown22.0 cm

Where ease goes

Round the body, ease is usually shared equally between the back and the front, so the side seam stays at the side. The armhole is another matter: it is drawn a few centimetres below the armpit, more in a jacket than in a shirt and more again in a coat, so the arm can move and the garment can go over other clothes.