Chapter 9
The kimono sleeve
In a kimono top the sleeve is cut in one with the body. There is no armhole seam at all; the shoulder line simply continues down the arm.
The slope of the shoulder line decides how the sleeve hangs. A flat sleeve, near a right angle to the side, lets the arm lift freely but leaves folds of fabric under the arm; a steeper one looks neater with the arm down, but the body lifts when the arm is raised. The underarm is a smooth curve, never a sharp corner, and back and front underarm seams are the same length. A close-fitting kimono sleeve often gets a gusset, a small diamond set into the underarm, to give back the movement.
What you need
| Measurement | Where the tape goes | Size 38 |
|---|---|---|
| Bust | Round the fullest part of the bust, level all round, under the arms. Wear the bra the garment will be worn with. | 88.0 cm |
| Waist | Round the natural waist, where the body is narrowest, usually just above the navel. | 72.0 cm |
| Hip | Round the fullest part of the hips and seat, feet together. | 97.0 cm |
| Neck | Round the base of the neck, over the prominent bone at the back and just above the collarbones at the front. | 36.6 cm |
| Back length (nape to waist) | Down the centre back, from the prominent bone at the base of the neck to the waist. Tie a string round the waist to find it. | 40.6 cm |
| Waist to hip | Down the side of the body from the waist to the fullest part of the hip or seat. | 21.0 cm |
| Arm length | From the shoulder point over a slightly bent elbow to the wrist bone. | 60.0 cm |
| Bicep | Round the fullest part of the upper arm, arm relaxed. | 28.0 cm |
| Wrist | Round the wrist over the wrist bone. | 15.8 cm |
Drafting, step by step
Each picture shows everything drawn so far; the new line of the step is in colour. The formulas show the names of the measurements first, then the numbers for size 38.
Back
Step 1
Start from the dartless block
the back of the dartless blouse
A kimono sleeve grows out of the body, so it is drafted on the body block itself. The armhole is not used.
Step 2
Sleeve slope
sleeve slope°= 22.0° = 22.0 cmThe shoulder line is carried on into the sleeve, turned down by this angle. A steep sleeve hangs close to the body with few folds; a flat one lifts the arm freely but makes deep folds under it.
Step 3
Sleeve length
sleeve length from shoulder = 24.0Measured from the shoulder point, as on the arm.
Step 4
Sleeve hem
sleeve hem width ÷ 2= 30.0 ÷ 2 = 15.0 cmFront and back each carry half of the sleeve hem.
Step 5
Sleeve width
(Bicep + sleeve ease over bicep) ÷ 2= (28.0 + 12.0) ÷ 2 = 20.0 cmThe underseam runs from the hem towards a point this far from the overarm, so the upper arm has room.
Step 6
Underarm corner
underarm drop = 3.0The sleeve seam and the side seam meet in a corner. It is rounded off so the seam can be sewn in one line; clip into the curve after sewing. For more lift, a gusset goes into this corner.
Step 7
Outline of the back
The back with the sleeve in one piece.
Front
Step 1
Start from the dartless block
the front of the dartless blouse
A kimono sleeve grows out of the body, so it is drafted on the body block itself. The armhole is not used.
Step 2
Sleeve slope
sleeve slope°= 22.0° = 22.0 cmThe shoulder line is carried on into the sleeve, turned down by this angle. A steep sleeve hangs close to the body with few folds; a flat one lifts the arm freely but makes deep folds under it.
Step 3
Sleeve length
sleeve length from shoulder = 24.0Measured from the shoulder point, as on the arm.
Step 4
Sleeve hem
sleeve hem width ÷ 2= 30.0 ÷ 2 = 15.0 cmFront and back each carry half of the sleeve hem.
Step 5
Sleeve width
(Bicep + sleeve ease over bicep) ÷ 2= (28.0 + 12.0) ÷ 2 = 20.0 cmThe underseam runs from the hem towards a point this far from the overarm, so the upper arm has room.
Step 6
Underarm corner
underarm drop = 3.0The sleeve seam and the side seam meet in a corner. It is rounded off so the seam can be sewn in one line; clip into the curve after sewing. For more lift, a gusset goes into this corner.
Step 14
Outline of the front
The front with the sleeve in one piece.
The finished pieces
Sewing it
- Cut and mark. Cut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
- Shoulders and overarm. Sew the shoulder seam on into the overarm seam in one line.
- Neckline. Finish the neckline with a facing or bias binding.
- Side seams. Sew the side and underarm seams in one line; clip into the underarm curve so it lies flat.
- Hem. Turn up the hem twice and stitch, or catch it by hand.