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Princess jacket

Collarless, princess seams. 6 pieces, drawn here for size 40.

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On the bodyFront and back
Front
Back
Pattern piecesWith seam allowance
BACKSIDE BACKSIDE FRONTFRONTTOPSLEEVEUNDERSLEEVE
Pieces6
  • Back2×, 23 by 66 cm
  • Side back2×, 17 by 44 cm
  • Side front2×, 21 by 42 cm
  • Front2×, 25 by 67 cm
  • Topsleeve2×, 23 by 65 cm
  • Undersleeve2×, 15 by 50 cm
MeasurementsSize 40
  • Height168.0 cm
  • Bust92.0 cm
  • Waist76.0 cm
  • Hip101.0 cm
  • Neck37.2 cm
  • Back length (nape to waist)40.6 cm
  • Front length (neck point to waist)45.4 cm
  • Bust point depth28.0 cm
  • Shoulder to shoulder38.2 cm
  • Waist to hip21.0 cm
  • Arm length60.1 cm
  • Bicep29.4 cm
Block settingscm
  • Bust ease15.0
  • Waist ease15.0
  • Hip ease9.0
  • Length from nape58.0
  • Armhole drop0.5
  • Shoulder ease1.9
  • Shoulder pad lift0.5
  • Neck widening1.5
  • Extra front neck drop2.0
  • Centre back suppression2.0
  • Flare at hem per seam1.5
  • Button extension2.0
  • Cap ease2.5
  • Sleeve hem width25.0
  • Patch pocketsNone
Fit checkscm
  • Finished bust107.0
  • Back · armhole · front width20.2
  • Princess seams front0.2
  • Princess seams back0.6
  • Length from nape58.0
  • Armhole total53.7
  • Sleeve cap56.2
  • Cap ease2.5
  • Sleeve width33.4
  • Sleeve length61.1
How to sew9 steps
  1. Cut and markCut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
  2. InterfacingFuse interfacing to the collar, stand, cuffs, waistband, facings and front edges before sewing anything.
  3. PanelsJoin the side panels to the back and the front, matching the notches. Press the seams open over a tailor's ham.
  4. ShouldersSew the shoulder seams, the back eased onto the front. Press open.
  5. Side seamsSew the side seams, matching the notches. Press open.
  6. FacingsSew the neck and front facings, understitch and turn.
  7. SleevesSew the two sleeve seams, ease the cap with two rows of long stitches and set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Add a sleeve head and shoulder pads if used.
  8. HemTurn up the hems, catch them by hand and bag the lining in if the garment is lined.
  9. ButtonsMark and sew the buttonholes, then the buttons opposite them.
Fabricsize 40
  • 110 cm wide1.9 m
  • 140 cm wide1.5 m
  • 150 cm wide1.4 m

Estimated from the pieces laid out with seam allowance, grain along the selvedge. Add more for matching checks or stripes. The editor shows the layout.