Overcoat

• Back2×, 36 by 113 cm
• Front2×, 40 by 114 cm
• Sleeve2×, 44 by 72 cm

• Chest100.0 cm
• Seat102.0 cm
• Nape to waist45.0 cm
• Shoulder length15.0 cm
• Arm length64.0 cm
• Bicep33.0 cm

• Chest ease34.0
• Length from nape106.0
• Armhole depth adjust0.0
• Shoulder extension2.5
• Shoulder pad lift1.0
• Front balance3.5
• Neck width adjust0.0
• Front neck drop0.0
• Button extension4.0
• Side flare at hem0.0
• Two-piece sleeveOff
• Extra sleeve length2.0
• Sleeve hem width36.0
• Cap ease4.0
• Patch pocketsNone

• Finished chest134.0
• Finished hip131.8
• Length from nape106.0
• Armhole total63.2
• Front armhole ≤ back2.5
• Shoulder back − front1.4
• Side seams back − front0.0
• Neckline total47.8
• Finished hem131.8
• Sleeve cap67.2

1. Cut and markCut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches, the dart points and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
2. InterfacingFuse interfacing to the collar, stand, cuffs, waistband, facings and front edges before sewing anything.
3. DartsSew each dart from the wide end to the point, the last stitches right on the fold. Tie the threads at the point, do not backstitch. Press waist darts towards the centre, bust darts downwards.
4. ShouldersSew the shoulder seams, the back eased onto the front. Press open.
5. Side seamsSew the side seams, matching the notches. Press open.
6. FacingsSew the neck and front facings, understitch and turn.
7. SleevesSew the sleeve seam, ease the cap with two rows of long stitches and set the sleeve into the armhole, matching the notches.
8. HemTurn up the hems, catch them by hand and bag the lining in if the garment is lined.
9. ButtonsMark and sew the buttonholes, then the buttons opposite them.

• 110 cm wide3.2 m
• 140 cm wide3.2 m
• 150 cm wide3.1 m

Estimated from the pieces laid out with seam allowance, grain along the selvedge. Add more for matching checks or stripes. The editor shows the layout.