Chesterfield coat

• Back2×, 30 by 114 cm
• Side panel2×, 21 by 90 cm
• Front2×, 37 by 115 cm
• Topsleeve2×, 32 by 71 cm
• Undersleeve2×, 25 by 61 cm
• Under collar2×, 20 by 23 cm
• Pocket flap4×, 19 by 8 cm

• Height182.0 cm
• Chest100.0 cm
• Waist88.0 cm
• Seat102.0 cm
• Neck39.4 cm
• Nape to waist45.0 cm
• Scye depth22.0 cm
• Across back38.4 cm
• Arm length64.0 cm
• Bicep33.0 cm

• Chest ease28.0
• Length from nape106.0
• Armhole depth (over scye)5.5
• Shoulder extension0.5
• Shoulder pad lift1.0
• Neck width adjust0.0
• Centre back suppression0.8
• Side waist suppression1.5
• Side panel front suppression1.5
• Front dart1.5
• Hip ease18.0
• Button extension7.0
• Lapel width10.0
• Collar stand3.0
• Collar fall4.8
• Collar end width4.5
• Vent length52.0
• Cap ease4.0
• Sleeve hem width34.0

• Finished chest128.0
• Finished waist116.2
• Finished hip120.0
• Length from nape106.0
• Back · armhole · chest width21.6
• Armhole total65.3
• Neckline ½21.6
• Sleeve cap69.3
• Cap ease4.0
• Sleeve width52.2

1. Cut and markCut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches, the dart points and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
2. InterfacingFuse interfacing to the collar, stand, cuffs, waistband, facings and front edges before sewing anything.
3. DartsSew each dart from the wide end to the point, the last stitches right on the fold. Tie the threads at the point, do not backstitch. Press waist darts towards the centre, bust darts downwards.
4. PocketsMake the pockets and flaps and set them on the fronts while the pieces are flat.
5. PanelsJoin the side panels to the back and the front, matching the notches. Press the seams open over a tailor's ham.
6. ShouldersSew the shoulder seams, the back eased onto the front. Press open.
7. Side seamsSew the side seams, matching the notches. Press open.
8. Collar and facingsSew the facings to the fronts, the under collar to the neckline and the top collar to the facings; turn, roll and press the lapels and collar into shape.
9. SleevesSew the two sleeve seams, ease the cap with two rows of long stitches and set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Add a sleeve head and shoulder pads if used.
10. HemTurn up the hems, catch them by hand and bag the lining in if the garment is lined.
11. ButtonsMark and sew the buttonholes, then the buttons opposite them.

• 110 cm wide3.7 m
• 140 cm wide2.6 m
• 150 cm wide2.6 m

Estimated from the pieces laid out with seam allowance, grain along the selvedge. Add more for matching checks or stripes. The editor shows the layout.