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Hubertus coat

Box-pleated back, fly front. 5 pieces, drawn here for size 50.

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On the bodyFront and back
Front
Back
Pattern piecesWith seam allowance
BACKFRONTTOPSLEEVEUNDERSLEEVECOLLAR
Pieces5
  • Back2×, 47 by 123 cm
  • Front2×, 39 by 124 cm
  • Topsleeve2×, 31 by 72 cm
  • Undersleeve2×, 23 by 61 cm
  • Collar2× on fold, 31 by 12 cm
MeasurementsSize 50
  • Height182.0 cm
  • Chest100.0 cm
  • Waist88.0 cm
  • Seat102.0 cm
  • Neck39.4 cm
  • Nape to waist45.0 cm
  • Scye depth22.0 cm
  • Across back38.4 cm
  • Arm length64.0 cm
  • Bicep33.0 cm
Block settingscm
  • Chest ease28.0
  • Length from nape115.0
  • Armhole depth (over scye)6.5
  • Shoulder extension0.0
  • Shoulder pad lift0.5
  • Neck width adjust0.0
  • Centre back suppression0.5
  • Side waist suppression1.0
  • Front dart0.0
  • Hip ease22.0
  • Button extension4.0
  • Cap ease2.0
  • Sleeve hem width36.0
  • Back pleat depth8.0
  • Pleat starts below nape20.0
  • Collar stand4.0
  • Collar fall6.0
  • Front neck lowered0.0
Fit checkscm
  • Finished chest128.0
  • Finished waist124.4
  • Finished hip124.0
  • Length from nape115.0
  • Back · armhole · chest width21.6
  • Armhole total65.9
  • Neckline ½27.0
  • Sleeve cap67.9
  • Cap ease2.0
  • Sleeve width49.2
How to sew8 steps
  1. Cut and markCut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
  2. InterfacingFuse interfacing to the collar, stand, cuffs, waistband, facings and front edges before sewing anything.
  3. ShouldersSew the shoulder seams, the back eased onto the front. Press open.
  4. Side seamsSew the side seams, matching the notches. Press open.
  5. Collar and facingsSew the facings to the fronts, the under collar to the neckline and the top collar to the facings; turn, roll and press the lapels and collar into shape.
  6. SleevesSew the two sleeve seams, ease the cap with two rows of long stitches and set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Add a sleeve head and shoulder pads if used.
  7. HemTurn up the hems, catch them by hand and bag the lining in if the garment is lined.
  8. ButtonsMark and sew the buttonholes, then the buttons opposite them.
Fabricsize 50
  • 110 cm wide3.6 m
  • 140 cm wide3.1 m
  • 150 cm wide2.6 m

Estimated from the pieces laid out with seam allowance, grain along the selvedge. Add more for matching checks or stripes. The editor shows the layout.