Stand-collar jacket

• Back2×, 26 by 92 cm
• Side panel2×, 17 by 71 cm
• Front2×, 34 by 94 cm
• Topsleeve2×, 28 by 70 cm
• Undersleeve2×, 21 by 61 cm
• Stand collar2× on fold, 26 by 8 cm

• Height182.0 cm
• Chest100.0 cm
• Waist88.0 cm
• Seat102.0 cm
• Neck39.4 cm
• Nape to waist45.0 cm
• Scye depth22.0 cm
• Across back38.4 cm
• Arm length64.0 cm
• Bicep33.0 cm

• Chest ease17.0
• Length from nape85.0
• Armhole depth (over scye)2.5
• Shoulder extension0.0
• Shoulder pad lift1.0
• Neck width adjust0.0
• Centre back suppression0.7
• Side waist suppression1.5
• Side panel front suppression1.5
• Front dart1.5
• Hip ease9.0
• Button extension2.0
• Vent length28.0
• Cap ease3.5
• Sleeve hem width29.0
• Collar height3.8
• Front neck lowered1.0

• Finished chest117.0
• Finished waist106.2
• Finished hip111.0
• Length from nape85.0
• Back · armhole · chest width20.6
• Armhole total57.2
• Neckline ½25.8
• Sleeve cap60.7
• Cap ease3.5
• Sleeve width44.5

1. Cut and markCut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches, the dart points and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
2. InterfacingFuse interfacing to the collar, stand, cuffs, waistband, facings and front edges before sewing anything.
3. DartsSew each dart from the wide end to the point, the last stitches right on the fold. Tie the threads at the point, do not backstitch. Press waist darts towards the centre, bust darts downwards.
4. PanelsJoin the side panels to the back and the front, matching the notches. Press the seams open over a tailor's ham.
5. ShouldersSew the shoulder seams, the back eased onto the front. Press open.
6. Side seamsSew the side seams, matching the notches. Press open.
7. Collar and facingsSew the facings to the fronts, the under collar to the neckline and the top collar to the facings; turn, roll and press the lapels and collar into shape.
8. SleevesSew the two sleeve seams, ease the cap with two rows of long stitches and set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Add a sleeve head and shoulder pads if used.
9. HemTurn up the hems, catch them by hand and bag the lining in if the garment is lined.
10. ButtonsMark and sew the buttonholes, then the buttons opposite them.

• 110 cm wide2.6 m
• 140 cm wide2.3 m
• 150 cm wide1.8 m

Estimated from the pieces laid out with seam allowance, grain along the selvedge. Add more for matching checks or stripes. The editor shows the layout.