Underwire bra

• Upper cup2× (and 2× lining), 18 by 10 cm
• Lower cup2× (and 2× lining), 18 by 11 cm
• Front frame1× on fold (and 1× lining), 17 by 10 cm
• Back band2×, 20 by 11 cm

• Bust92.0 cm
• Underbust78.5 cm
• Bust point depth28.0 cm

• Cup depth adjust0.0
• Wire width adjust0.0
• Upper cup coverage0.80
• Strap point towards the side0.35
• Centre gore width1.8
• Band below the cups1.8
• Side frame width3.0
• Side frame above the wire end1.0
• Band stretch taken off-8.0
• Hook and eye height3.8
• Strap length adjust0.0

• Underbust78.5
• Bust − underbust13.5
• Cup projection6.1
• Wire width across12.9
• Wire line20.3
• Band elastic70.5
• Strap elastic43.4
• Channeling21.3

1. Cut and markCut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
2. MaterialsCups: a firm, non-stretch fabric or cut-and-sew foam, lined. Frame: firm fabric lined with stabilised tricot. Back band: power mesh with the stretch along the band. You also need underwires, channeling, plush underband elastic, narrow top elastic, strap elastic with rings and sliders, and hook and eye tape.
3. CupsSew the upper cup to the lower cup along the cross-cup seam, matching the apex notches. Press the seam allowances apart and topstitch them down on both sides. Do the same with the lining and place it inside, wrong sides together.
4. Neckline edgeFinish the neckline edge of the upper cup with narrow elastic or a fold-over binding, without stretching it.
5. FrameBaste the frame to its lining. Sew the back bands to the frame at the side seams.
6. Cups into the frameSew each cup into the wire opening, cup on top, matching the centre front, the bottom notch and the side. Clip the frame allowance so it turns smoothly.
7. ChannelingStitch the channeling over the seam allowance of the wire line from the centre gore round to the side. Leave the top ends open.
8. Underband elasticZigzag the plush elastic to the right side of the band edge, the plush facing up. Turn it to the inside and topstitch with a three-step zigzag, stretching it slightly along the back bands.
9. Top edgeFinish the top edge of the back bands and the side frame with narrow elastic in the same way.
10. WiresSlide the wires into the channeling. Close each end with a bar tack across the channel just above the wire tip.
11. StrapsSew a ring to each strap point on the upper cup. Thread the strap elastic through the slider and the ring and stitch it to the back band at the strap mark.
12. HooksSandwich the ends of the back bands in the hook and eye tape and stitch them in.

• 110 cm wide0.4 m
• 140 cm wide0.4 m
• 150 cm wide0.4 m

Estimated from the pieces laid out with seam allowance, grain along the selvedge. Add more for matching checks or stripes. The editor shows the layout.