Pleated trousers

• Front2×, 37 by 105 cm
• Back2×, 48 by 110 cm
• Waistband1×, 96 by 10 cm

• Waist88.0 cm
• Seat102.0 cm
• Outside leg105.5 cm
• Body rise27.0 cm

• Waist ease2.0
• Extra seat ease0.0
• Crotch depth ease1.5
• Waist lowered by0.0
• Leg opening46.0
• Extra knee width0.0
• Waistband height4.0
• Length adjust-2.0
• Back pocketsNone

• Finished waist90.0
• Back darts4.0
• Finished seat117.0
• Crotch depth24.5
• Crotch seam total68.8
• Inseam back − front-0.2
• Side seam back − front-0.4
• Knee width55.9
• Leg opening46.0
• Trouser length incl. waistband103.5

1. Cut and markCut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches, the dart points and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
2. InterfacingFuse interfacing to the collar, stand, cuffs, waistband, facings and front edges before sewing anything.
3. DartsSew each dart from the wide end to the point, the last stitches right on the fold. Tie the threads at the point, do not backstitch. Press waist darts towards the centre, bust darts downwards.
4. PocketsMake the side pockets and the back pocket while the pieces are still flat.
5. Fly zipSew the front crotch seam up to the zip mark and set the fly zip.
6. Side seamsSew the side seams, front to back, matching the notches at the seat and the knee. Press open.
7. Inside legSew both inside leg seams, the back eased onto the front between the crotch and the knee.
8. Crotch seamSew the back crotch seam from the zip round to the centre back waist. Stitch the curve twice.
9. WaistbandSew the waistband on, the overlap at the fly. Fold, stitch in the ditch, add a button or hook and the belt loops.
10. HemTry on, mark the length, press up and stitch the hems by hand.

• 110 cm wide2.3 m
• 140 cm wide2.3 m
• 150 cm wide2.2 m

Estimated from the pieces laid out with seam allowance, grain along the selvedge. Add more for matching checks or stripes. The editor shows the layout.