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Tailored jacket

CB seam, two-piece sleeve. 4 pieces, drawn here for size 50.

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On the bodyFront and back
Front
Back
Pattern piecesWith seam allowance
BACKFRONTTOPSLEEVEUNDERSLEEVE
Pieces4
  • Back2×, 32 by 83 cm
  • Front2×, 32 by 83 cm
  • Topsleeve2×, 26 by 69 cm
  • Undersleeve2×, 18 by 60 cm
MeasurementsSize 50
  • Chest100.0 cm
  • Waist88.0 cm
  • Seat102.0 cm
  • Neck39.4 cm
  • Nape to waist45.0 cm
  • Scye depth22.0 cm
  • Across back38.4 cm
  • Across chest37.0 cm
  • Shoulder length15.0 cm
  • Arm length64.0 cm
  • Bicep33.0 cm
  • Wrist17.5 cm
Block settingscm
  • Chest ease11.0
  • Length below waist31.0
  • Shoulder extension1.5
  • Shoulder pad lift1.0
  • Armhole drop2.5
  • Neck widening0.5
  • Front neck drop0.0
  • Centre back suppression2.0
  • Side waist suppression1.5
  • Front dart1.5
  • Button extension2.0
  • Seat ease8.0
  • Cap height / armhole0.33
  • Cap ease3.5
  • Sleeve hem width29.0
Fit checkscm
  • Finished chest111.0
  • Length from nape76.0
  • Armhole total50.5
  • Neckline total42.3
  • Shoulder back − front1.1
  • Side seams back − front0.0
  • Finished waist98.0
  • Finished hem110.0
  • Sleeve cap54.0
  • Cap ease3.5
How to sew9 steps
  1. Cut and markCut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches, the dart points and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
  2. InterfacingFuse interfacing to the collar, stand, cuffs, waistband, facings and front edges before sewing anything.
  3. DartsSew each dart from the wide end to the point, the last stitches right on the fold. Tie the threads at the point, do not backstitch. Press waist darts towards the centre, bust darts downwards.
  4. ShouldersSew the shoulder seams, the back eased onto the front. Press open.
  5. Side seamsSew the side seams, matching the notches. Press open.
  6. FacingsSew the neck and front facings, understitch and turn.
  7. SleevesSew the two sleeve seams, ease the cap with two rows of long stitches and set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Add a sleeve head and shoulder pads if used.
  8. HemTurn up the hems, catch them by hand and bag the lining in if the garment is lined.
  9. ButtonsMark and sew the buttonholes, then the buttons opposite them.
Fabricsize 50
  • 110 cm wide2.5 m
  • 140 cm wide1.7 m
  • 150 cm wide1.7 m

Estimated from the pieces laid out with seam allowance, grain along the selvedge. Add more for matching checks or stripes. The editor shows the layout.