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Tailored jacket

Notched lapel or shawl collar, darted. 4 pieces, drawn here for size 40.

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On the bodyFront and back
Front
Back
Pattern piecesWith seam allowance
BACKFRONTSLEEVECOLLAR
Pieces4
  • Back1× on fold, 28 by 64 cm
  • Front2×, 35 by 66 cm
  • Sleeve2×, 38 by 64 cm
  • Collar2× (top collar on the fold, under collar on the bias), 23 by 10 cm
MeasurementsSize 40
  • Height168.0 cm
  • Bust92.0 cm
  • Waist76.0 cm
  • Hip101.0 cm
  • Neck37.2 cm
  • Back length (nape to waist)40.6 cm
  • Front length (neck point to waist)45.4 cm
  • Across back35.9 cm
  • Shoulder length12.3 cm
  • Waist to hip21.0 cm
  • Arm length60.1 cm
  • Bicep29.4 cm
  • Wrist16.2 cm
Block settingscm
  • CollarNotched lapel
  • Bust ease10.0
  • Waist ease8.0
  • Bust dart toSide seam
  • Bust dart width6.0
  • Shoulder ease0.0
  • Neck widening0.0
  • Extra front neck drop0.0
  • Hip ease8.0
  • Length below waist18.0
  • Button overlap2.5
  • Break point above the waist8.0
  • Collar stand2.5
  • Collar fall4.5
  • Lapel width8.0
  • Notch3.5
  • Collar point4.0
  • Buttons2.0
  • Button spacing10.0
  • Cap ease2.5
  • Sleeve hem width26.0
  • Patch pocketsNone
Fit checkscm
  • Finished bust102.0
  • Finished waist84.0
  • Length from nape58.6
  • Sleeve cap44.2
  • Cap ease2.5
  • Sleeve width35.4
  • Sleeve length61.1
How to sew9 steps
  1. Cut and markCut every piece with the grain arrow parallel to the selvedge. Transfer the notches, the dart points and the marks with tailor's chalk or a short snip into the seam allowance.
  2. InterfacingFuse interfacing to the collar, stand, cuffs, waistband, facings and front edges before sewing anything.
  3. DartsSew each dart from the wide end to the point, the last stitches right on the fold. Tie the threads at the point, do not backstitch. Press waist darts towards the centre, bust darts downwards.
  4. ShouldersSew the shoulder seams, the back eased onto the front. Press open.
  5. Side seamsSew the side seams, matching the notches. Press open.
  6. Collar and facingsSew the facings to the fronts, the under collar to the neckline and the top collar to the facings; turn, roll and press the lapels and collar into shape.
  7. SleevesSew the sleeve seam, ease the cap with two rows of long stitches and set the sleeve into the armhole, matching the notches.
  8. HemTurn up the hems, catch them by hand and bag the lining in if the garment is lined.
  9. ButtonsMark and sew the buttonholes, then the buttons opposite them.
Fabricsize 40
  • 110 cm wide2.1 m
  • 140 cm wide1.5 m
  • 150 cm wide1.5 m

Estimated from the pieces laid out with seam allowance, grain along the selvedge. Add more for matching checks or stripes. The editor shows the layout.